Dermaplaning won't make your hair grow back darker and thicker, experts say, but there are still pros and cons to weigh. (Getty)
For years, women like me (I'm Italian-American and facially furry) were warned not to shave our faces. If we did, we'd sprout darker, thicker hair — essentially, if a razor even grazed our fuzzy cheeks, we'd instantly grow more hirsute. But all that has changed in the past few years as dermaplaning, a type of precision shaving with a sharp, single blade, has become increasingly popular in mainstream beauty circles. It's a frequently requested treatment in dermatologists' offices and a TikTok trend worldwide.
"Dermaplaning is a popular non-invasive cosmetic treatment that involves gently exfoliating the skin's surface using a sterile surgical scalpel," says Dr. Dara Spearman, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Radiant Dermatology Associates. Spearman and other experts believe that shaving your face with a dermaplaning tool is generally safe and, with proper technique, can even be a serious boon to your skin's health.
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EltaMD's sunscreens are considered best in class by every dermatologist I've ever interviewed. Spearman especially loves this gel version, which she say is excellent for those with sensitive skin: "It's fragrance-free, which I love, and contains zinc oxide to protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays."
For smoother, motorized dermaplaning, look no further than this beloved shaver from Panasonic. The easy-to-use battery-operated tool glides over skin, removing the awkward effort and elbow grease from your delicate facial shave.
"It hydrates for 48 hours," Mian says. "It's formulated with hydrating ingredients such as glycerin, niacinamide and panthenol that work to improve the resilience of sensitive skin."
Cetaphil's affordable cream is made with the brand's HydroSensitiv Complex, a combination of hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin B5, and vitamin E — a solid checklist of nourishing ingredients you want in a cool-weather moisturizer. For those with sensitive skin, niacinamide does a great job of soothing. There's also blue daisy extract — this pretty, flower-bearing plant has antioxidant benefits that can help with redness and discomfort, from say, a cold wind burn.
According to Spearman, there are myriad benefits to dermaplaning that extend beyond a smooth shave. "One of the most noticeable immediate benefits ... is the improvement in skin texture and brightness," she says. "Makeup applies more evenly, and skin-care products absorb more effectively since the barrier of dead cells has been removed." Over time, Spearman says, consistent dermaplaning can soften the appearance of acne scars and rough patches, contributing to a more youthful-looking complexion.
"While dermaplaning does not directly erase wrinkles, it supports anti-aging efforts by enhancing the absorption and effectiveness of active skin-care ingredients like retinol and peptides," she adds. "This boost in product performance, coupled with increased cell turnover, can lead to improvements in fine lines, tone and firmness with regular treatments."
Though dermaplaning will not make your hair grow back thicker, darker or coarser ("It does not affect the growth of hair follicles," Spearman says), it can make your skin more susceptible to irritation and, potentially, more serious issues depending on your skin tone and type.
"Some individuals may experience temporary redness or irritation following the procedure, and those with active acne, rosacea or extremely sensitive skin may not be ideal candidates," Spearman says. "There's also a small chance of nicks or scratches if the treatment isn't performed correctly, especially in DIY attempts." Additionally, she says freshly exfoliated skin is at higher risk of damage from sun exposure, so proper sun protection is essential after any type of dermaplaning.
There are two types of dermaplaning — at home and professionally guided, most often in a dermatologist's office. Pros like Spearman prefer the latter, which utilizes a sharper blade and involves a skin expert who can customize the treatment to your specific needs. Plus, she warns: "At-home dermaplaning puts you at a higher risk of irritation, infection, ingrown hairs, uneven results and the possibility of cutting and scarring the skin."
If you're going to attempt dermaplaning at home, experts say the following guidelines will help protect your skin:
Stop using physical or chemical exfoliants at least three days before dermaplaning
Cleanse your face thoroughly before you begin shaving
Start with a fresh, clean razor
Shave in short, light strokes, going with the grain of your hair and staying away from acne or pre-existing cuts or sores
Apply a gentle, noncomedogenic moisturizer after treatment
If you have issues like rosacea, extremely sensitive skin or questions about whether dermaplaning will work for you, it's best to consult with a doctor before diving in — a good idea before attempting any new skin-care techniques.
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