Research shows eye creams with high concentrations of targeted ingredients like retinol can improve the appearance of fine lines and dark circles. (Getty Images)
If the eyes are the windows to the soul, as we age, the skin surrounding them becomes, well, a bit like the wrinkled, bedraggled curtains. Post-40, the orbital area is suddenly rife with "mature skin" problems: from puffiness to dark circles to crepey-ness to crow's feet, your under eyes age faster than any other part of your face. And for good reason: the skin around our eyes is naturally thin and delicate. It contains little fat, few oil glands and far less collagen than, say, your cheeks. All of which makes this area more prone to wrinkles, discoloration, dryness and a hollow appearance. You might feel skeptical that a fancy eye cream can help alleviate these problems, but skin experts I've interviewed say... they actually can. "Women as young as 18 should be using eye creams!" explained Kimberly Austin, an aesthetician at the Los Angeles-based 7QSpa (Kim Kardashian is a client). "They almost always promote a smoother, plumper and firmer appearance [to the area]. Plus, it’s easier to maintain great skin than to reverse aging."
While no cream will improve the appearance of undereye puffiness and wrinkles quite like blepharoplasty (a popular eye surgery), research shows that the skin around our eyes does respond to targeted ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. All skin is different, but in concentrated doses, and with consistent use, these ingredients have been shown to improve the texture and appearance of the under- (and over-) eye area over time. However, in order to see results, you can't use just any cream: "Although you may think you can use any facial moisturizer, the truth is the active complexes needed to treat the more delicate area around the eye are, in fact, different," says cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Ava Shamban. "This area specifically is prime for puffiness, dark circles and fine lines, which should be addressed differently than other areas of the face.
"Generally look for antioxidants [like vitamin C] to protect and actives [like retinol] to correct," she explains. "You want to improve circulation and oxygenation in this area. Retinol, peptides/peptide complexes and ceramides — along with brighteners like niacinamide, vitamins C, E and K — are all top ingredients. Also look for tightening ingredients like caffeine and/or calming ingredients like green tea, calendula and chamomile. Any combination of these can be great for eye cream."
Whatever cream — or gel — you choose, it should be thick and/or dense so it doesn't run into the eyes. Lastly, look for a gentle formulation without harsh ingredients like acids: "Some moisturizers may have concentrations of acids that are not as suitable for the eye area and can cause irritation," says Shamban.
I spent six months last year testing eye creams to find the best ones for a myriad of issues — including dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles. Here are my top finds.
It's hard to find a better-quality under eye serum than this vitamin C version from Paula's Choice. It's clinically formulated to brighten under eye discoloration while smoothing and firming the delicate skin in this area. The texture is lightweight and supple, with extra emollients. While it doesn't contain retinol, this is my top pick for dark circles because of its ideal mix of antioxidants and active ingredients.
If you're looking for a retinol treatment for eye bags, crow's feet and the under-eye area overall, this is for you. RoC is the premier name in over-the-counter retinol and its eye cream is highly rated, with nearly 20,000 5-star Amazon reviews. It's excellent for improving the appearance of both fine lines and dark circles and it's dermatologist recommended too. I wish it contained more antioxidant, nourishing ingredients, but for the price, it cannot be beat.
The Inkey List is a bit of a secret among beauty editors. The U.K. brand's products are carbon net-zero, cruelty-free, fragrance-free and good for all skin types (including the most sensitive). They're also shockingly well-priced for what they are. I particularly love this potent caffeine eye cream for depuffing the under eye area and reducing dark circles. The package is small, but you need only a dab or two, so a little goes a long way.
I've tried a lot of eye creams. And, for my money, CeraVe makes the best drugstore depuffing/under-eye brightening treatment currently on the market. Not only does it feel good on your skin (absorbs quickly, no gross pilling), it's also fragrance-free, hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic. Don't take my word for it: Olivia Wilde also loves it, along with thousands of reviewers, who say it's like Botox in a cream. I'm not sure about that claim, but I do know this is a quality skin care staple at a price everyone can afford.
Sunday Riley's products are almost uniformly best in class, and this extremely hydrating, almost magically depuffing serum is no exception. It's packed with caffeine, ginseng and the antioxidant lutein and it's nearly scent-free, which makes it a great option for sensitive skin. The texture is silky and it both brightens dark circles and absorbs quickly, leaving behind a dewy glow I found pleasant. One downside is the absence of retinol, which means it's not helping to build collagen in the area. Still, it's a high-quality cream that works well in a rotation, along with my second favorite, from RoC.
